Assisi
After settling into our comfortable room overlooking ancient yard, it suddenly felt thrilling to be back in this wondrous, historical place: I last saw this famous town over 40 years ago. Now, as we walked though narrow winding streets, we saw beautiful old stone cottages gleaming in sunshine and window sills brimming with colourful cyclamen flowers. Finally we beheld the 13th century Basilica of St. Francesco who died, aged 44 in 1286. We entered the Lower Church built in 1210 and marvelled at the wonderful frescoes by Giotto (1267-1337) on the walls and ceilings – all describing episodes from Jesus’ life and also those of St. Francis in his brown habit.
Undoubtedly, Giotto led an artistic revolution once he joined the workshop of Cimabue (1240-1302) and met fellow artist Simone Martini (1284-1344) and Ambrogio Lorenzetti (1280-1348), both from Siena – who also worked in the Basilica of S. Francis.
There were many inspiring landscapes and buildings to sketch and particularly impressive was the Rocca Minore at Assisi Castle….in the evening light. However, at the closed entrance we unexpectedly met a charming elderly Custodian who allowed us into the Rocca Minore Tower (now closed because it was dangerous). When I exclaimed about the beautiful view in my broken Italian and whipped out my sketch book – he understood my wish and then asked if he could have one sketch. I did a rapid sketch, gave it to him and then asked to draw his portrait, which he did willing with his dog, Nana. He then offered to show a small church (usually locked) with a striking fresco of St. Mary which had been restored… This was a very friendly and unexpected encounter – thanks to my sketch-book!
We beheld a beautiful sunset as we walked toward the other tower (Rocca Maggiore). This entailed following a long a tunnel INSIDE the turreted wall (at least 150 enters long)…and we emerged up high and marveled at the view over Assisi, as well as the dramatic cloud formations. I attempted a quick sketch of Rocca Minore Tower in the distance and then official said it was time to leave…
Assisi-Perugia 26/03/24
We decided to do a day-trip to nearby Perugia by early bus. In spite of the drizzling rain, we headed straight for the Galleria National dell’Umbria – with its major exhibition of the ‘Enigma of the Master of S. Francis’ – a painter whose identity remains unknown. He painted very striking portraits of Jesus and other images in 1270s… Jesus hung on the cross was painted in very bold colours and style: the unusual, wavy hair, very thin nose, wavy beard, also exaggerated angle of torso, showing muscles – all seemed much influenced by Byzantine style. We walked throughout the 2 upper floors: this enormous palace displayed various Umbrian artists, including Pietro Perugino (1446-1523) who also studied under Verocchio (1435-1488) at the same time as Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519). It was a very impressive collection..right up to 20th century, including the influence of Flemish painters…
Nearby was the large Cathedral or Duomo with ornate Roccoco vaulted ceiling and one very impressive COPY of a Perugino masterpiece, stolen by Napoleon Bonaparte and now in Caen, France!
We then walked to a nearby Collegio del Cambio, another formal building – with a striking collection of frescoes by Perugino (1446-1523). Here we behold scenes from Jesus’ life, also Greek Gods & Roman figures – all were very harmonious colours, including his self-portrait in the ‘pillar’ between images. He was not afraid to express his fame and Rafael Sanzio (1483-1520) was his student… Also striking in this building was the wood inlay in the Chamber of Commerce – where the village councilors made weighty decisions about financial matters, also dispensed sentences related to ‘Justice’.
There was much to ponder as we walked in rain toward railway station through the old part of Perugia town – arriving at Assisi S. Maria Magiore railway station from which we took a bus up the hill to Assisi.
Arezzo 27/03/2024
Still raining next morning and friendly receptionist lent us umbrella so we could walk to the Basilica of S. Francis of Assisi. There we spent 2 ½ hours looking carefully at Giotto and his ‘school’. A magnificent image by Cimabue of St. Francis. Cimabue (1240-1302) set the tone as the teacher of Giotto (1267-1337) – who then developed his own way of telling a story, using perspective and small groups in space, with expressive, tender expressions… Undoubtedly, Giotto led an a visual, artistic revolution that impacted 100 years later – the Italian Renaissance movement.
After picking up our luggage, we took a bus to train station then arrived later in Arezzo, after a long day…
Further along, we discovered the Archaeological & Roman Amphitheatre Museum: an impressive collection of Etruscan Art (from tombs)….Then we walked to the Duomo (Cathedral) de S. Domenico for another amazing ½ hour: here I stood in awe of another artist hero of mine: Piero Della Francesco’s (1415-1492) alter frescoes in San Francesco Basilica: amazing groups, colours, forms and and simple expressions – all very impressive, particularly his rendering of Mary Magdalen in 1459: wonderful colours and very graceful drapery, fine proportions. There were few people in church and we had clear views of the amazing stained glass panels and high, vaulted ceiling.
Our next stop was S. Maria Church to look at Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s (1280-1348) magnificent altarpiece: brilliant colours, harmonious distribution of bright red, blue and purple of figures, also frescoes…by French artist Guillaume de Murcillat (1470-1529).
Nearby was a large park with a striking white marble statue of Petrarca….close to the imposing fortress of the Medici family with 2AD foundations. We saw remnants of Roman mosaics beneath us as we walked along ramparts built by the Medici family to fortify against invaders, then it was abandoned in 18th century as a military garrison.In 1816 Count Vittorio Fossombroni bought the whole fort and turned it into a farm. Only 2 houses remained from 16th Century and I enjoyed drawing one of these houses.
After we boarded our bus at 1.45 pm bus to Siena – an impressive first sight was a row of very ancient olive trees that had been heavily pruned…How old were these trees?