The ancient city of Padua (Padova) offered abundant opportunities for learning much about its history: the prejudice suffered by Jews who had already arrived in the city in the 12th century and who later were strictly confined to a the area known as the Jewish Ghetto in 1603. Only 300 Jews now lived in this spacious bustling square. We were given a guided tour of the only remaining active synagogue (built by Christians)and told that Jews were not allowed to build, but could sell old clothes and also study, practice medicine. However, Jews were declared free after the arrival of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1797.
At the same time, Padua was a visual feast of art and architecture, as well as an unexpected musical concert.
An unexpected exhibition at the Palazzo Zabarella, Padua, entitled From Monet to Matisse – the collection left by Monet’s son, Michel, from his home in Giverny, France was organized by Brooklyn Museum, USA. Many French Impressionist gems by Degas, Cezanne, Monet & Pissarro were on show – including Berthe Morisot’s painting “Mother & daughter” – painted when Berthe Morisot was 30 years old!
There followed an unexpected free concert at the Auditorio & Conservatorio Cesare Pollini: young students with an amazing young African, Helen Ogbuachi (Nigerian?) conductor, one middle Eastern, one from Ukraine – a great programme of Beethoven & Mozart music.
We had to wait in a chilly evening to visit the magnificent Eremita Museum with its splendid paintings by Giovanni Bellini(1435-1516), Veronese (1538-1588), the innovative Mantegna (1430-1506), Tintoretto (1571-1610), the influence of Flanders and an unexpected female painter, Chiara Varotari (1584-1663) with her striking portraits of the Capodilista family, using loose brush-work and one portrait with a globe which was significant.
Next was the brilliant Giotto Photographic Interpretative Section (with an excellent film on the life of Giotto), close to the Scrovegni Chapel with the amazing Giotto frescoes. It was a joy to behold the fine frescoes by one of my favourite artist heroes: Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337) – who was innovative, ahead of the Renaissance style that developed later. He and his 40 helpers painted the vivid blue ceiling above with his clear compositions, perspective, stories, dramas of Christ and famous Last Judgement.