We took the Metro (an adventure) to the imposing Stacione Central di Milano and arrived in Ravenna at 2.30pm. We finally found a Tourist info and bought a Ravenna tourist card and tickets to an unexpected ‘Red Shoes’ ballet at (Dante) Alighieri Theatre for next day by the Toscana Ballet Company. Seeing all the famous Byzantine mosaics was high on our list and the friendly official recommended us to begin at the Basilica San Vitale, showed the location on a map and told of the recent underground Domus De Tappeti di Pietra – discovered in l994.
We walked to Dante’s tomb, learnt that he was a fan of Giotto (1267-137)and Giotto’s portrait of the famous Italian poet, Dante (1265-1321) was in Florence: the only portrait of this mighty Italian poet, philosopher and writer – now in the Bargello Museum, Florence.
Soon after, we beheld the exquisite proportions of Mausoleo di Galla Placida (Mausoleum) – 5th Century AD, with stunning mosaics and golden stars on the interior of dome. Impressive ‘beginnings’ of figures on either side of window, in yellow marble,in exquisite light.
Nearby we entered the Basilica di San Vitale: an amazing structure with more impressive mosaics. This was a marriage of East & Western influences, with the western half of 5th Century AD: early Christian & Byzantine art. The upper gallery was for women!
The next wonder we entered was the Cappella of St. Andrew (494-519AD) – accessible through the Cappella Arcivescovile Museum. Here we saw a fine mosaic composition of Christ treading evil – the lion & snake and learnt that the Cappella was consecrated by bishops during Theodoric’s Kingdom when the main religion was Arianism.
Next we visited the Battistero Neoniano (Baptistery), close to the Ravenna Duomo (Cathedral): an exquisite octagonal structure with breath-taking mosaics. An intimate space built in 5th Century AD.
The last architectural/mosaic wonder of the day was Basilica di S.Apollinare N. These were impressive underground mosaics (discovered in 1994) – showing geometric figures and a striking image of ‘Four Seasons’: Byzantine 5-6th century AD.
Dinner again at Mr. Dante Restaurant where we liked the table lamp: zafferanoitalia.com
8.30pm: Alighieri Theatre, where we sat in 2nd row of a box and watched ballet called ‘Red Shoes’ with dissonant music but meaningful body movement: the human condition played out in antagonistic, complementary, affectionate, contorted and playful with an interesting play of light and dark, also the use of curtain to show contrasting figures mimicking each other… different!
17/03/2024 We walked to Mausoleo di Teodorico (Mausoleum) – an impressive Gothic structure built with Istrian stone (from 400kms away) in 520AD, for the tomb of King of the Ostrogoths, Teodoric. The upper dome weighs 230tons and one wonders….was this carved and hoisted up?
We then walked to the No. 4 bus stop and went to the Basilica de Santo Apollinare in Classe, outside Ravenna. This was another impressive, high-vaulted ceiling with colourful mosaic apse: 12 lambs with St. Apollinaire below large cross – male dressed saints! Simple tall columns. Outside were 5 large bronze cows ‘grazing’ in a field!